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  #11  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:48 PM
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I dont recall there being a "nub" on teh crimp ring, the ones I have are pretty smooth. Just finished installing the hardiboard around the tub except near the faucet manifold. That's coming out to be replaced with another. Ductile copper already up bit it's sweated to the old manifold via a threaded to female connector. No lock off valves under the floor to bleed them so I'll probably have to shut the water off tonight after the kids are asleep and cut them off completely. I'm contemplating brass nipple to pex to brass nipple threaded to the manifold but wonder about reliability versus sweating copper. What's your thoughts
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:11 PM
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If you don't have shutoffs, I'd sweat threaded fittings on to your copper, then thread some good sturdy brass ball valves on your lines. Less down time on the whole house water supply.

As far as I know, and I am not a licensed plumber--just a devoted student of home improvement, there are mainly two types of pex clamps the round ones that use a specific die or crimper tool for each size and the stainless steel ones with the nub on them that you crimp (varying sizes). I use the latter. The clamps are about a buck a piece, but what a time saver.

I just finished a complete, down to the studs, remodel of our hall bath a couple months before the kids got here. I feel you pain and confusion.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:46 PM
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Every time we do anything with plumbing we put a ball valve in. Well, not every time, but it just sucks having to shut down the whole house to fix one sink or something.
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  #14  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:11 PM
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Yep, I just came back from HD. the nub ones are sharke bites mine are the older version pex. SHIT. anyway bought the long handles ones and yes got ball valves. I'm going to redo the pex to run to a hatch in the floor where the ball valves will be. The Master bedroom is huge so the hall with the closet within the bedroom will be turned into more bathroom with a dual sink with the door moved to near the entrance of the hall. Theres a large alcove which I'm going to turn into the closet thereby shortening the master by about 2 feet. I'll still have 6 feet between the end of the bed and the closet.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:26 AM
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I did try the shark bite, helping a friend install a water heater. Must admit it was pretty slick. Still, I like the bulletproofness of sweated copper. The only times I've ever had any trouble sweating was in the basement with lots of pipes above me. Even with blowing them out, letting it all drain for an hour, I'd get some steam in there and have trouble getting it hot enough.

I know new construction uses pex all the time now, sure it's fine. But soldering is so cheap and easy, I'll use that unless there's some issue like I described.

Add some pics of your project Louis, DIY has been a little lacking lately.
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  #16  
Old 01-14-2013, 02:36 PM
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Was thinking about that but its rather unimpressive and looks like a typical hack job. Had to redo a fitting twice last night as I couldn't fit the crimp in the tight space.
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  #17  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis001 View Post
Was thinking about that but its rather unimpressive and looks like a typical hack job. Had to redo a fitting twice last night as I couldn't fit the crimp in the tight space.
Hope it holds. My old hood in VA had all PEX tubing. A number of homes had the 3rd floor/ unfinished attic space with roughed in plumbing. Over time with water pressure changes a few of the homes had the caps pop off. Homes trashed. One fella was having his 3rd floor being finished when it happened. No proper permits, no proper inspections equaled no insurance money to repair the 2 floors of wood flooring and drywall damage below.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2013, 07:07 PM
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I think it will. I'm confident of the sweat fittings (i.e. copper to pex nipple) and am pretty careful about the clea-ness of the tube cut and ensuring the pipes are hot enough to suck the solder in with a good bead of solder all around the fitting (particularly in this case as it'll be sealed behind a tiled wall). It's the pain in the ass tedious process of getting it right that irks me, having to cut that collar off with a dremmel or sweat off the fitting and sand the solder off. I refused to use the snap-on shark-bite units for that very reason. The guy in the hardware store "swhore" up and down that it'll hold forever but I'm skeptical of anything that simply slips off with a horseshoe device. If it's that easy, chances are, I'm buggered.

I ended up sweating a nipple onto a right angle fitting and sweating that so it pointed towards the tub just so I could fit the long handle crimp in the space (holding it vertically) I also installed shut off valves in the basement drilling a 3" access hole through the floor to feed it up there making sure I could do it before cutting out the old pipes and removing them.
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:06 PM
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wow wish I had been here for the beginning of this conversation, I use
PEX all the time at work, been replacing all copper at camp. first do not try to replace all copper with it, use the PEX for long runs,and runs to fittings than go to copper and sweat joints, soldering is not hard anyone can do it well, clean your pipe well, don't try to use propane, spend the extra $$ and get a good MAPP gas torch, your life will be much easier. Again spend the money the first time and buy a good crimpper we are talking $150 here! If it costs you $500 to buy the tools so you can literally never call a plumber again than you have done well!
Don't think its hard, its not, I teach 15 year old kids how to do all of it at work and they do it very well, as I tell them the plumbers gonna charge you $100 just to show up never mind fix anything! YouTube is the worlds greatest instruction book, no matter what your doing some one has taped it and put it up on youtube!
If any one needs help feel free to ask!
oh ya and SHARKS rock in a emergency! Use crimp rings and solider normally!
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Last edited by chuck; 01-27-2013 at 03:09 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-28-2013, 05:29 PM
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My house is Frankensteined from copper, PVC, CPVC, and PEX. Plumbers installed the CPVC, which has frozen once this year and didn't burst, so I definitely recommend going with that one. I installed the PEX, and it was pretty easy. I haven't had any problems with it so far. But if you paid $50 for that little hunk of scrap metal, they took you for a ride, my friend. My crimper is one of the long-handled ones, and it cost like $40 at Lowe's.
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