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  #31  
Old 09-22-2010, 04:15 PM
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Kwak Kwak is offline
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OK, then I'll keep up with it but I need to change gears.

I've been looking at tools lately and found a used drill press on craig's list for $35. Yet again I'm tempted.
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  #32  
Old 09-22-2010, 06:29 PM
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You need literal electric baby. Wow. Great tune BTW.
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  #33  
Old 09-22-2010, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feedthemachine View Post
Just sitting back admiring this thread, awesome job so far...
This. I don't always post but always check when you update.
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  #34  
Old 09-23-2010, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will'sdad View Post
I don't always post but always check when you update.
Me too!
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  #35  
Old 09-24-2010, 04:12 AM
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Thanks, guys. I guess I'm just coming up against the frustration of not having the knowledge or proper tools going into this. FWIW it's got the wheels in my head rolling again and I'm trying to find ways to get around those limitations and solve some problems I've been having.

Problem 1: Can't cut a straight line on my band saw.
Common knowledge solution: calibrate the blade by adjusting the guides and by using the included fence.
Problem 1A: no fence came with this gifthorse
Idea 1: build a homemade fence using a piece of MDF scrap and a couple of large clips

Problem 2: Can't sand 3 or 4 3/4" curved forms to the same level or even a single form square with itself - I always have either an arch or a slant to the profile of the curve.
Common Knowledge solution: Use a fixed sanding spindle to shape a single form to desired specs, then using that one as a "master" attached the remaining forms and use a flush trim or pattern tracing bit to trace the master and cut the remaining forms to match. If you don't have a router or spindle table then a drill press will do in a pinch
Problem 2A: I don't own a router, sanding spindle, routing table or even a drill press. All I have is a vice and a hand drill.
Idea 2: create a combination t-square and sanding stick/dowel.

BTW, I did catch wind of a used drill press for $35 just down the road. Do you guys think I should jump on it before my wife sees how much money I've blown on plywood this past month?
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  #36  
Old 09-24-2010, 01:18 PM
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Heck yeah,35 bucks is like giving it aawy,unless its junk..What brand is it?
Your solutions sound good too......I don't know how your doing it without a router though(or anything),those things are worth their weight in gold if you ask me....good luck
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  #37  
Old 09-24-2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feedthemachine View Post
Heck yeah,35 bucks is like giving it aawy,unless its junk..What brand is it?
Your solutions sound good too......I don't know how your doing it without a router though(or anything),those things are worth their weight in gold if you ask me....good luck
Cummins. I hear it's made in China, but what isn't these days? I hear you on the router though. I'll need one to cut out the soundhole and route the rosette inlay once I'm done planing the cedar top down to close to the final thickness.
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  #38  
Old 09-27-2010, 04:51 AM
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OK, I think I'm back on track. I was chit chatting with my "mentor" (he hates to be called that even though I wouldn't even be attempting this if it wasn't for him) and we talked about flush trim bits and routers. We were kicking around ideas to get all the boards for my mold exact with as little work as possible. When I asked what kind of bit he told me he used a regular flush trim bit but taped off the section he was traced so that when the rest of the material was routed out it'd tear off the tape before digging into the wood, letting him know that things were flush there.

Well, that gave me an idea and I ran with it. I touched up a few rough spots in my "master" board and clamped it to a rough cut board and screwed them together with wood screws so that nothing could shift. Then I took a strip of green masking tape, covered my master boards finished outline and got to work sanding the rough curve with my hand drill's spindle attachment. I'd stop every now and then to check with my T-square and everything squared up. I also shone a light in such a way that it would cast a shadow from the rough cut curve to the green tape. Once the shadow was gone I knew that that section was flush and I could move on. I did two of my rough boards in about an hour and have one left for tomorrow.

SPeaking of tomorrow, I need to hit Home Depot yet again for more wood for my mold's spacers (I need 95 of 1x2x3s's to make up the depth of the semi-solid mold) and a miter saw to use with my new gents saw to cut them. Why do it this way? Because I don't have a table saw and the band saw is too imprecise.

Meanwhile, my friend claims he got his thickness sander working again so I'm gonna try and make it over there tomorrow and finish thickness sanding my top and hopefully move on the mahogany back and sides. I also have a board of rosewood that I want to use for trim, wedges and rosette but I doubt I'm gonna get to all that tomorrow.

BTW, my next bit of homework is to start cutting the wood for the structural braces for my guitar. That's why I bought the gent's saw and need a miter box. These are one component of determining the guitar's tone and must be cut precisely so that they all fit snugly.

With any luck I'll have actual pictures of tonewood to post tomorrow.
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  #39  
Old 09-27-2010, 02:21 PM
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Looking forward to your pics. I feel like I'm right there with ya.
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  #40  
Old 09-28-2010, 04:56 AM
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Well, the mold is almost done. Just a little more sanding and cutting of spacers and I'll be putting it together. Same with the bending forms. I just have to sanding down a couple of humps and everything should fit like a glove.

BTW, tonight I actually worked on the guitar woods tonight. My friend has a Jet 10/20 drum sander that we use to sand the thickness of the woods used for the body of the guitar. Before we'd been using 120 grit and it kept coming loose and made some pretty nasty dark streaks/gouges in my cedar. Well, I'm proud to say that the top is now down to my target of 3.5mm and the streaks/gouges are gone. Now things are so uniform that I'm actually having trouble finding the point where the two cedar boards were glued together. The secret? My friend found a place locally that sells sandpaper rolls for this model drum sander and he bought coarser 80 grit and figured out how to install it properly. I also finally learned how to use it so that the machine could work more efficiently. Here's the trick on that: hold the board flat on the conveyor belt with your fingertips and let it worry about feeding it under the sanding drum. THen once it's past the drum press down on the board while it's still on the conveyor belt with a second hand ready to accept the board once the drum spits it out.

Next up is doing the rosette and back strip while getting the sides ready to be bent and put into my molds - once they're done of course.
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