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  #41  
Old 10-01-2010, 02:24 PM
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Kwak Kwak is offline
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I've been told I'm getting overly anal on this so I need to step it up. I figure I've spent enough of my wife's money on plywood to move ahead.

Final sanding of the contour so that all 4 match:


Note the miter box that I used to cut a TON of little blocks of wood for the depth of the mold


Originally the mold was to use 3" spacers but it looked too deep (4.5") since the guitar itself is only going to be 4.5" deep and I'll need the edges free so that I can route out the edges. So I've been playing with the arrangement of the spacers to either 3/4" (mold would be 2.25" deep)


...or 2" spacers (mold would be 3.5" deep)


This way would have more "meat" to drill through for the mounting bolts so that I can separate the mold when the "box" is closed:




Either way would involve just a little more sanding...
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  #42  
Old 10-05-2010, 03:14 AM
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Not much to add other than I've mounted all those little wooden block spacers (1.25" wood screws at the "hard" points and 1.25" nails everywhere else) and sanded them all out to roughly the same shape as the guitar outline. Then I went and drilled a 3/8" inch hole through the blocks that are projecting out at either end and threaded a 3/8" lag bolt through to hold the two halves together. It ain't perfect but I'm hoping it's close enough.

Things still aren't perfect but I just have a little cleanup to do around where the neck block will be clamped. That is one of the places where I need to be pretty exact or else the guitar will be crooked.

Once I'm done with that I'm moving on to the spreader blocks, which is basically an internal clamp for each apex of the guitar curve. I'll have three; one for the waist and another for each of the bouts. I was considering on making a 20" one for the blocks but I think a clamp at either end will do.
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  #43  
Old 10-07-2010, 05:08 AM
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Today I was admiring my finished mold and waist spreader:


Then I began to wonder about how everything would fit. Way back when I first received the plans and John and I chose the mahogany set I was a little dismayed to find out that the sides were slightly shorter than the length of the template on the plans. I don't remember what it was exactly but we're talking an inch, give or take. I wondered how this would affect how the sides fit into the mold once we bended them. So I did some reading on OLF and broke out my plans and acrylic template:



... I looked at the figures on the plans and set out to measure how close I came to on the mold. First I marked the target waist line on my mold vs. the plans:


Then I measured the length of the waist to the tail joint:




...then the waist to the neck joint:





Then I wrote down the results:



Looks like my waist is off by 1/16" but the target length is nearly right on. Not bad for eye-balling things if I do say so myself.

Then I marked my template for the appropriate trim lines:





So what does this tell me? Well, my hope is that I can avoid any cupping in the mold once the sides are bent and clamped in and the waist spreader put to tension. I want everything nice and snug without being too long. It looks like I have about 13/16" to play with. I need to go back and measure how long the mahogany sides really are now.
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  #44  
Old 10-09-2010, 01:52 PM
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Well, last night was certainly productive: we made 6 rosewood coasters!

Seriously, the intent was to get a .1" wide ring of rosewood (with a 5" radius) for my rosette last night and it took 6 tries. FYI: we used a dremel with the Stewmac sound hole jig.

I brought my D-16GT to copy the rosette and provide something to measure with a set of calipers but ultimately decided that it was best just use as "ballpark" and see what would work. Again, my inexperience with woodworking was partly to blame but at least I have all my fingers - it was close there on one try.

It made sense to do the inner ring first and then the outer, which was a good thing because the circular cutout served as a good template for the next 5 attempts. Each time, the "inner" pass went well but the first few attempts met with disaster as the little ring would suddenly fly off into several pieces. On one pass the bit actually dropped through the work piece and about 1/4" into the table below, which was not a big deal but did cause some tear out in the rosewood which was and proved to be the most spectacular failure.

Ultimately I stood back and let my friend John do it and it took him 3 tries too, but he had a few good ideas which seemed to solve the tear-out issues:

1: apply a layer of shellac to the work area to reinforce it
2: tape everything down so that the work piece was flush against the work table and could not move.
2: stop and clear out the accumulating rosewood dust because it may have been interfering with the dremel bit


Ultimately, we did successfully cut out a contiguous ring of rosewood that is still somewhat slim (probably around .15") but by then it was getting too late to clean it up and inlay it in the top. That's probably a GOOD thing.

Sorry no pics yet, but there were some taken.
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  #45  
Old 10-12-2010, 12:52 AM
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I was thinking about moving ahead on that rosette and did some rough measurements and a little drafting in Adobe Illustrator:



No way that it's going to work out to be that exact, but I basically want to know where to route the inner and outer rings (which I admit is going to be a call made on the fly) and how wide to make the main ring. If the purfling strips are up to spec they should be .060" and the main trench should be about .22".

Before that though I was working on my bending forms. I think I have them pretty close:



The cross section is nearly flat and square to the sides so I shouldn't have any major toe-in problems when I bend the sides. The waist is the only area that really needs attention but by using the t-square as a scraper I should be able to get it there:


It's not perfect to the template but I'm anticipating that the mahogany sides will have a little spring back. As long as the spreaders and outside mold do their job I'm hoping things will be fine. Just to be sure, I checked to see if there was adequate space in the mold for the spreaders to fit so that the spring back is at a minimum:


I'm mostly concerned about the waist since that's where most of the flexing is reputed to occur. First the bass side:


...then the treble:


It looks like I can stand to shave a little more off the upper and lower bouts too though.
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  #46  
Old 10-12-2010, 01:29 AM
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Don't you dare stop bumping this thread.
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  #47  
Old 10-12-2010, 12:05 PM
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Will do, Will's Dad!
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  #48  
Old 10-12-2010, 12:50 PM
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Okay. You're killing me. When are we going to see a guitar with strings in it? This is AMERICA dammit. I want instant gratification.
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  #49  
Old 10-12-2010, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyfan View Post
Okay. You're killing me. When are we going to see a guitar with strings in it? This is AMERICA dammit. I want instant gratification.
Honest answer: probably not for at least 6 months to a year. It's killing me too, but OTOH I want to be as precise as I can be.
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  #50  
Old 10-12-2010, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwak View Post
Honest answer: probably not for at least 6 months to a year. It's killing me too, but OTOH I want to be as precise as I can be.
NK,in all honesty ,i would have never thought the measurements would have to be so precise...looking good ...
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